Best friends Guido Martinetti and Federico Grom were the founders of the international artisan gelato business, Gelaterie GROM. In 2008 they bought land in Costigliole d’Asti, where initially, the property was almost entirely dedicated to the production of fruit, in particular, apricots, white figs, pears and peaches - but the boundaries of the property have been expanded over the years to a total of 30ha, 10 of which are planted with vines, and a further 4ha in the Barbaresco DOCG and 1ha in Barolo DOCG. As was their vision and philosophy with gelato, their venture in wine is about the finest raw ingredients, authenticity and the highest quality end product. Their focus is on their three cru wines of Barbaresco.

Mura Mura Barbaresco Starderi 2019
From one of the more storied crus in Neive. There’s 1750 bottles (145 cases) produced from a parcel of 1.4 acres. so about 1300 litres, which would seem a ‘normal’ yield from a vineyard of this size. The winemaking specifications say
• 12 months: 25 hl French oak barrel
• 12 months: 400 l ceramic amphorae
• 6 months: resting in bottle.

And while I’m not great at maths, I can’t see how the volume produced fits with a 2500L barrel, unless there’s a Riserva in the works for a further 1500 bottles, which I also can’t fathom from a vineyard of this size? Regardless, here we are, and don’t mind me! Anyway I tasted this alongside an Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Roncagliette 2019, because I had one open. No oak influence there, as a compare and contrast. Importer: Fesq

Very good wine of distinct ‘mineral’ and stony inflection, and while it certainly tastes ‘modern’ and seems kissed with biscuit spice oak and mocha richness, the power and succulence here is really quite impressive. Cherry, floral, some liquorice, tobacco, cool acidity, crushed rock tannin, with a finish of excellent length. Maybe a little too polished, but gee, it’s a pretty good wine all up.
Rating: 94 Points
Source: Gary Walsh, The Wine Front

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